The Grotto

666666

666 11a/b
FA: Vaino Kodas, Chris Morath 2006
This climb is on the face to the right of Venarete. A clean brown face leads to a series of bulges. 9 bolts.

Tenable and UntenableTenable and Untenable

Tenable 9
FA: Jen Payne, Vaino Kodas 2009
5.9 or 5.10, you decide if this climb is "tenable". This climb is at the far upper end of the right side of the Grotto. It's on the large boulder that you hike around to get up to the mesa that leads to the Alcove. Scramble up to the first bolt and then trend up and right. It's almost always in the shade. Short. 4 bolts.

UntenableUntenable

Untenable 11c
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne 2009
This climb is on the same formation as Trailer Park Girls and Where the Wild Things Aren't. Walk left around to the south side of the formation. The route is just across from Tenable. Climb an arete to a ledge and continue on the more difficult arete to the anchor. 10 bolts?

BedeviledBedeviled

Bedeviled 11c/d
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne 2008
Look for the next arete to the right from "Waiting to Procrastinate". Belay on a shelf just up and right from the "Unnamed Crack". Bedeviled begins on the arete and eventually moves left to a short crack over a bulge. The belay anchors of the Unnamed Crack are on the ledge above this bulge, but Bedeviled continues up and right without using these anchors. Move over another bulge (technical crux) and cruise to the anchors. 12 bolts.

El Areto Bolto Del Diablo and Drama QueenEl Areto Bolto Del Diablo and Drama Queen

El Areto Bolto Del Diablo 10d
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne 2009
This climbs the high arete to the right from "Lucifer's Hammer Drill". To get to the start of the route scramble up a gully and move right to a two bolt belay. Climb past two bolts (shared with Drama Queen) and then break left across some dark rock to get to the excellent, technical, well bolted face and arete. 14 bolts?

Drama Queen 10d
FA: Vaino Kodas, Gabriela Baumeister 2009
This climb is just right of El Areto Bolto Del Diablo and shares the belay and first two bolts. Continue straight up an easy slab to where the wall steepens. Use the crack on the right until you can step across left onto the face. Continue up and then right on mostly good edges and a few pockets. Not as good as El Areto Bolto Del Diablo but worth climbing if you are there already. 10 bolts?

Cruella De Vil, Ojo, Prescribed Burn, and Memory BlockCruella De Vil, Ojo, Prescribed Burn, and Memory Block

Cruella de Vil 10c
FA: Jen Payne, Vaino Kodas 2008
This climb is left of Ojo about 50 feet. Look for an arete at the left side of a flat brown and green face. Climb the arete to an optional belay anchor (5.10c) and continue up 5.8 terrain to a left angling ramp and another belay anchor below a headwall thin crack.

Prescribed Burn 11a/b
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bryan Pletta 2005
This climb can be seen on the skyline at the farthest upper left reach of The Grotto as one hikes in. Approach the base by walking around to the right and then up to a scenic flat spot. Climb past one bolt to a big ledge and then move up and left to the arete. Move right onto the face at the top. 9 bolts.

Memory Block 10a
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bryan Pletta 2005
Approach and belay as for Prescribed Burn. Climb past the first bolt (shared by both climbs) but move right after the ledge. The route deviates a bit from the arete. 9 bolts.