The Far Side I

Giant SquidGiant Squid

Giant Squid 12
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mike Tritt, 2006
This route is just right of Surfer Boy and The Shrimp. Technical climbing on a blunt arete leads to a big-move crux and then easier climbing above. Requires delicate movement and heel-hooks, or tentacles with suction cups. 7 bolts.

Stiff Upper lipStiff Upper Lip

Stiff Upper Lip 11b
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne, 2007
This route is just left of Rambling Man. Lieback up to a thin crack that leads to a large ledge. Lean over right to clip the last bolt and then climb out right and up to the anchor. 6 bolts.

Indiscriminate DrillingIndiscriminate Drilling

Indiscriminate Drilling 10c
FA: Vaino Kodas, 2006
At the far left side of THE FAR SIDE I is a bottleneck in the trail between the rock face and a large tree, mentioned by Bernard Moret in his excellent online guide to Palomas. Indiscriminate Drilling starts about 15 ft. right of this bottleneck. Stem up a corner and then exit left to an arete. Move sharply left at the top to the anchors. A large midway ledge on the left is a possible resting spot. 6 bolts.
NOTE: The bolts on this route were first placed as a practice drilling exercise with no thought about placement. Fortunately a climbing route was then discovered that coincidentally passes all of them, with only mild discomfort at the seemingly odd and random bolt positions.