Midnight Rock

Midnight Rock

The Engine 10d
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mary Zuvela, 2004
This route climbs a clean brown wall that starts from a large ledge high on the rock, above the Pirate Radar roof. It is about 30 feet left of Karma Kamelian. The best approach is to rappel from the top. The ledge can also be accessed by climbing one of the lower routes. An excellent thin crack leads to some exposed face climbing. Move right at the top around the large block to the anchor. A great pitch. 5 bolts plus gear.

The Caboose 11c
FA: Vaino Kodas, Moe Hershoff, 2004
This climb is just right of The Engine and starts from the same ledge. Stem up past a wide crack in a left facing corner and then continue with a thin crack. 6 bolts.

Flake Out 12
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mary Zuvela, 2004
Begin just right of Around Midnight. Climb the right margin of a green face, just left of a big chimney/gully. At the top of the face move over a bulge to gain an overhanging left leaning corner. Climb the corner and step over the lip to the anchor. An exciting climb. 10 bolts.

Meltdown 10c
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mary Zuvela, 2004
Begin as for Flake Out. Instead of climbing the overhanging left leaning corner, move up right and climb the face right of the arete. 10 bolts.

Midnight Rock, Upper Right Side

Deus Ex Machina 11b
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mary Zuvela, 2003
This route and the next are at the upper right side of Midnight Rock, above The Vanishing. Approach from the top by walking past the small mine pit and then scrambling down to a large ledge. The climbs will come into view shortly after starting the descent. Scramble west down a steep gully and move over to a two-bolt anchor on a ledge atop a gigantic flake. Alternatively, one can belay at the end of a large ledge with a tree on it, another 30 feet down. Climb up an overhanging face moving right at the top. 5 bolts.

Dyno Mart 12a
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mary Zuvela, 2003
Belay as for Deus Ex Machina. Move right into a left-facing corner leading to an overhanging thin crack. Make some difficult moves over the lip and step left to the anchor of Deus Ex Machina. 5 bolts.