Plotinus Wall, Right Side

Boulder Quartz System, Tooth and Nail, and Counting Sheep

The following 5 routes start off a ledge system to the right of Lucid Dreaming. Be very careful lowering off the routes here, as the drop down to the river is serious.

Boulder Quartz System 12a
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2001
Begin on the ledge, about 30 feet right of Lucid Dreaming. Lieback a slightly overhanging left-angling seam next to a very large quartz patch. At the top of the seam make a series of difficult moves to eventually gain a large horn at the base of a groove. Follow the groove up and left to the anchors. 8 bolts.

Tooth and Nail 11a
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2003
Climb the first 15 feet of Counting Sheep (thin crack) and reach left to the "Tooth". Move up and left and then rock over right to gain the slab. Balance up the slab, tending left at the top to reach the "Nail". Continue up a finger crack to the anchor. 6 bolts plus small to medium gear.

Counting Sheep 11a
FA: D'Antonio, Kodas, 2001
Start off the big ledge, just right of Boulder Quartz System. Climb up a crack in a right facing corner to reach a bolt. Move a little left to another bolt below a bulge. Climb the bulge out right (11) and pull up to the anchors. 3 bolts and small to medium gear.

Plotinus Wall, Right Side

Sominex 11a
FA: D'Antonio, Kodas, 2002
Walk around the right end of the big ledge. Be careful, the drop from here would be fatal. A third class crack/corner leads up to a sloping ledge with a belay. Sominex is the left route above this belay. Start in a small corner and then climb a delicate face. 6 bolts and small to medium gear. Alternately, one can start on Sleep Deprivation and move left into Sominex, requiring no gear.

Sleep Deprivation 10b
FA: Kodas, D'Antonio, 2002
Begin the route as for Sominex, to reach the large ledge. Climb past two bolts on the right to reach a horizontal crack. Continue up past 4 bolts at the right side of the face and move back left to the anchor of Sominex.