Boulder Canyon

Wall of Winter Warmth

The next 5 routes are at the bottom of The Wall of Winter Warmth. From left to right, the routes on this rock are: Escutcheon, Mini Moe, Closed Open Space, Alpha Bob, Leader of the Pack, and The Slit, an excellent crack climb on the right side.

Wall of Winter WarmthWall of Winter Warmth, Lower, Near the Stream

Escutcheon 10c
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2003
At the base of the Wall of Winter Warmth and just left of Closed Open Space and Alpha Bob is a large shield shaped boulder with an obvious thin crack. Short, but high quality and fun.

Mini Moe 2
FA: Moe Hershoff, Sam Hershoff, Vaino Kodas, 2003
This is a double-crack/chimney/gully in the right facing corner between Escutcheon and Closed Open Space. It can be easily top-roped by climbing a third class ramp behind Escutcheon to the anchors of Closed Open Space. Hand-size gear.

Closed Open Space 9
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2003
This route begins just left of Alpha Bob. Begin with a difficult mantle onto a shelf. Continue over a small roof and a series of discontinuous cracks with a little vegetation. 4 bolts and some small to medium gear.

Alpha Bob 11d
FA: D'Antonio, Kodas, Hershoff 2001
This route is just left of Leader of the Pack. Climb up a broken up pillar to a small roof. Surmount the roof and wander past 4 bolts on a difficult slab to the anchor. 4 bolts.

Leader of the Pack 11c
FA: Kodas, D'Antonio, Hershoff, 2001
This route is just to the left of The Slit. Climb past two bolts to reach a seam. At the end of the seam go up and left to the two-bolt anchor. 2 bolts and small to medium gear.

The next two routes are on the west side of the Wall of Winter Warmth.

Wall of Winter Warmth, UpperWall of Winter Warmth, Upper

Angle of Repose 11d/12a
FA: (P1) D'Antonio, Kodas (P2) Kodas, D'Antonio, 2002
This route starts off of a large sloping ramp on the west side of the Wall of Winter Warmth. The ramp can be accessed from the top, just above the Berlin Wall (3rd or 4th class descent), or from the bottom by doing the first part of Left Side to reach the ramp at the tree above the black groove. (P1): Start about 15 feet left of the tree. Move right onto a large handhold and make a lunge move. Move up to a tooth and pass over it to easier climbing. 7 bolts. (P2): Climb up on good holds to a small overlap. From here, a series of technical moves lead past a shallow corner to a very delicate traverse left. Continue up a shallow corner, over a bulge, and then up another shallow corner leading to the anchor. 12 bolts. Rappel, or move right under the roof and up. The route can be done to the upper anchor in one long pitch.

On the Bough 12a
FA: D'Antonio, Kodas, 2002
This is an alternate first pitch to Angle of Repose, and starts about 30 feet up and left. A bouldery start leads to strenuous liebacking moving past some left leaning flakes.

The following route is on the right side of the Wall of Winter Warmth.


Mordor 12b
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2003
Mordor climbs the spectacular arete on the right side of the Wall of Winter Warmth. The first pitch (10d) starts just right of the Regular Route, on a ledge with several pine trees. Climb up a dog-leg crack and follow a thin seam to the belay. 2 bolts and small to medium gear. Pitch Two (12b): Make some committing, strenuous moves out left to reach the arete. Climb the exposed arete to the anchor. Finish on Right Side or rappel back down. 6 bolts.

The next 4 routes are on the KRISHNA formation.

Lower Krishna Formation, By The StreamLower Krishna Formation, By The Stream

Black Pool 11c
FA: Morris "Moe" Hershoff, Vaino Kodas, 2003
Begin just right of a small waterfall, about 20 feet left of Helix and Diving For Kipper Snacks. Move up and right to a slanting roof. Move left around the roof and then follow thin cracks to the belay. 8 bolts.

Black Pool Variation 11c
FA: Vaino Kodas, Moe Hershoff, 2003
Begin as for Black Pool, but move right to surmount the roof. Continue up the right facing corner until it is possible to move left over the arete to join Black Pool. 8 bolts.

Diving for Kipper Snacks 11a
FA: Kodas, D'Antonio, Hershoff, 2001
This route is at the lower southwest corner of the Krishna formation, next to the creek. Start about 15 feet right of a very large detached block/pillar. Climb a right facing corner for about 30 feet, until you can step left to a short vertical crack. Follow the crack to the bottom of an arete. Climb the arete (11) past 3 bolts to a scoop. Pass two more bolts in the scoop to a two bolt belay. Lower down (caution - 90'). 5 bolts and small to large gear.

Wall of Winter WarmthWall of Winter Warmth

Vishnu, Upper Krishna FormationVishnu, Upper Krishna Formation

Vishnu 11d
FA: Kodas, D'Antonio, 2001
This route is between Prajna and Krishna Orange, on the upper Krishna formation. The route can be seen from various places as one hikes up the Boulder Falls trail. Approach this route by ascending the gully up to The Berlin Wall. Then traverse across left to the base of an orange wall. Vishnu climbs the obvious sloping ramp system in the center of the wall. A great route with a commanding position. 7 bolts.

Boulder Canyon
The information on this website was compiled by Vaino Kodas and may not be copied in any manner without his consent.