Boulder Canyon

Plotinus Wall, Left Side

Plotinus Wall, Left SidePlotinus Wall, Left Side

Plotinus Wall, Left SideMy Buddy and Bedtime Story

My Buddy 10c
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2003
This is the furthest left route on the Plotinus wall. After the fourth bolt of Bedtime story move left on a ledge. Climb up to another ledge and then straight up the clean slab above. 12 bolts.

Bedtime Story 10b
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2002
This route starts at the far left end of the Plotinus Wall, on the left side of a square-cut buttress. Start with some overhanging moves (10), and follow 11 bolts up a slab to a steep headwall. This is just left of Sleepless Child.


Morpheus 11b
FA: D'Antonio, Kodas, 2002
Morpheus is the long right-facing corner at the left end of the Plotinus wall. Climb in from the left, clip a bolt and climb up to the start of the corner. Climb up the corner past two bolts, place some mid-size gear and gain a good ledge. Clip a bolt and make a hard move up and left to a small ledge (11). Climb up steep rock past 4 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. 8 bolts plus some medium-sized gear.

Wake Up Call and Snooze ButtonWake Up Call and Snooze Button

Wake Up Call 10b
FA: D'Antonio, Kodas, 2002
Just right of Morpheus, climb up to a left angling crack and figure out how to stand up on the large ledge. Move over a bulge to finish on a great slab. 7 bolts.

Snooze Button 10b
FA: Kodas, D'Antonio, 2002
This beautiful route shares an anchor with Wake Up Call. Climb past 4 bolts to a good ledge. Move left and get your feet up and over a bulge (10). Finish up a slab on perfect rock. 9 bolts.

Chore BoyChore Boy

Chore Boy 10b
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2002
Start just right of Snooze Button and use the first bolt of that route. Angle right into a blocky, shallow corner. Make a weird move left over a small overhang and crank up a steep wall on good holds to a shallow crack. Climb the crack up to and over a small overhang (gear) and reach a good ledge. Power up the steep headwall past three bolts on good edges and sidepulls to the anchor. 10 bolts.

Smell the Coffee and The Daily GrindSmell the Coffee and The Daily Grind

Smell the Coffee 10c
FA: D'Antonio, Greg Hand, Kodas, 2002
Roughly in the middle of the wall and just right of a huge pillar is this clean-looking slab. Start by balancing up past the first bolt to get a good handhold and clip the second bolt. From here, the climb will go left, right, or straight up, at your discretion. Continue to a small roof, and then head for the anchors. 8 bolts.

The Daily Grind 10c
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2003
Just right of Smell the Coffee, move through some small corners and then up through some delicate face climbing. 8 bolts.

Napster and Tooth FairyNapster and Tooth Fairy

Napster 10c
FA: D'Antonio, Kodas, 2002
This 4-bolt route is just right of a right angling ramp. Although it looks short, it packs in some fun, challenging moves.

Tooth Fairy 11b
FA: Kodas, D'Antonio, 2002
This route starts in a short open dihedral with one bolt in it (11). After getting on the ramp above, move right and then up a shallow corner to the two-bolt anchor.

Mr. Sandman, Golden Slumber, and Sleepless in BoulderMr. Sandman, Golden Slumber and Sleepless in Boulder

Mr. Sandman 10b
FA: D'Antonio, Tom Perkins, Mary Jane Golau, Kodas, 2002
Start just behind a pine tree. Climb up angling ramps to a bolt. Make some nice moves on solid rock, and then move up and left to a short, steep corner. Climb up the corner and make a hard move left to a ledge, and the anchors. 9 bolts.

Golden Slumber 11a
FA: D'Antonio, Kodas, Moe Hershoff, 2002
A version of this route, sharing the start and the upper crack, was climbed but not reported, by Dougald MacDonald and Dave Goldstein around 2000). Golden Slumber starts just left of Sleepless in Boulder on the Plotinus Wall. Power up a series of laybacking and face moves past several bolts to a short left-facing corner. Place gear in the corner, gain a big hold and clip a bolt below a thin crack. Climb the crack using gear and then climb past two bolts (crux) to a two-bolt anchor.

Sleepless in Boulder 11a
FA: Kodas, D'Antonio, 2002
Start just left of a large right leaning arch. Climb past a large block (looks loose - but a crowbar would not remove it - best not belay under it though) to a couple of little roofs. Surmount the roofs (11) and continue right to easier rock. Climb up to a steep headwall, move out right and get your hands up to a small shelf. Get onto the shelf and make a few arete-hugging moves to the anchors.

Art of DreamingArt of Dreaming

Art of Dreaming 12b
FA: Kodas, D'Antonio, 2002
This route is just right of Sleepless in Boulder and climbs just below the obvious large right leaning arch. Make a few moves up a shallow corner, and then head out right and up (12) to a good ledge below a small roof. Move over the roof (11+) and continue up easier rock to a bulge. Lieback up and right over the bulge and mantle up left to the two-bolt anchor. 11 bolts.

The Bobsled and Lucky StrikesThe Bobsled and Lucky Strikes

The Bobsled 11c/d
FA: D'Antonio, Kodas, 2001
Climb to the top of a pillar behind an obvious pine tree. Clip the first bolt and move up and right past another bolt to a left facing corner. Climb the corner to a small roof. Pass the roof on the right side, and move up and left to a steep ramp system. Climb into a notch and step over right to the anchors. From here, one can continue the pitch to the belay of Art of Dreaming. 8 bolts.

The Bobsled Direct Start 12b
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2001
Start just right of the pillar behind the pine tree mentioned in The Bobsled. A series of difficult moves leads into a small left facing corner. Continue with the Bobsled.

Lucky Strikes 12a
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, Moe Hershoff, 2001
Start on a large ledge just left of the giant corner. Power up and right, then a bit left, then up right to an obvious little pod. Try to rest, and make the moves to the good ledge. Finish on some delicate face moves up and left to the anchors. An excellent, technically challenging route. 9 bolts.

Boulder Canyon
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